Who Proposed the Idea that Pu erh Tea Gets Better with Age?
Key Points:
- Not All Pu erh Tea Improves with Age: Not all Pu erh teas get better over time. Only those with high-quality raw materials, proper processing, and suitable storage conditions will develop a rich and captivating flavor over time. In other words, while time is a friend to Pu erh tea, it needs the right environment to thrive. If the flavor and aroma have reached their peak, there’s no need to age it further.
- Science Behind “The Older, the Better”: The concept of “the older, the better” has a scientific basis, especially for raw (sheng) Pu erh. In suitable storage conditions, Pu erh undergoes a “secondary fermentation” process. During this phase, microorganisms, enzymes, and other chemical compounds in the tea gradually change, producing new aromatic and flavorful compounds. Over time, the bitterness fades, the taste becomes smoother, and the color deepens to a beautiful amber or ruby red, reflecting the magic of aging.
- Deng Shihai’s Contribution: Deng Shihai and his book “Pu erh Tea” are crucial references. Although he wasn’t the first to propose “the older, the better,” his systematic discussion on aging, evaluation, and storage techniques has broadened the understanding and recognition of this concept. While some believe Deng’s work was aimed at marketing, his insights have made a lasting impression on tea enthusiasts.
- Modern Advocates of Aging: In contemporary times, the concept of “the older, the better” doesn’t have a singular origin, but key figures have promoted it. For example, in 1984, Wang Shuwen clearly articulated that Pu erh tea is “durable and becomes better with age,” challenging the traditional view that “wine should be aged, and tea should be fresh.” His perspective changed the way people perceive Pu erh tea, laying the foundation for modern appreciation.
- Historical and Cultural Depth: The idea of Pu erh “getting better with age” may seem mystical, but it’s rooted in a blend of time, nature, and deep cultural heritage. Historical records dating back to the Ming Dynasty mention the evolving fragrance of Pu erh over time. Li Yuanlang wrote in “Gazetteer of Dali Prefecture” that the tea trees in Mount Dazhu produced tall trees with a unique flavor that improved with storage. This serves as early literary evidence of the appeal of aged Pu erh.
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